成衣設(shè)計項目教學(xué)
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【作 者】豐蔚
【I S B N 】978-7-5084-7583-7
【責(zé)任編輯】張玉玲
【適用讀者群】高職高專
【出版時間】2010-06-01
【開 本】16開
【裝幀信息】平裝（光膜）
【版 次】第1版第1次印刷
【頁 數(shù)】
【千字?jǐn)?shù)】272
【印 張】12.25
【定 價】￥48
【叢 書】21世紀(jì)藝術(shù)設(shè)計學(xué)習(xí)領(lǐng)域?qū)嵱?xùn)系列
【備注信息】贈1CD
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本書通過廣泛調(diào)研，提取成衣設(shè)計師的典型工作任務(wù)，并圍繞以設(shè)計任務(wù)為主的成衣設(shè)計、工藝工作流程，將調(diào)研、設(shè)計、工藝、以及設(shè)計發(fā)布等各工作環(huán)節(jié)連貫一體，通過案例解析工作要點、學(xué)習(xí)設(shè)計實踐技能；同時也融入了相對系統(tǒng)的實踐性理論，以確保學(xué)生形成相對較為完整的知識架構(gòu)。
本書重在成衣設(shè)計與工藝的動手實踐性，體現(xiàn)了高職高專服裝院校的職業(yè)教育特點，適用于全國服裝職業(yè)院校學(xué)生。
通過企業(yè)實例展現(xiàn)成衣設(shè)計過程，配合企業(yè)品牌定位，全面詮釋成衣設(shè)計內(nèi)涵；
來自企業(yè)的實踐經(jīng)驗——從設(shè)計調(diào)研到設(shè)計概念，再到最后工藝制作、產(chǎn)品推廣，實現(xiàn)完整的成衣設(shè)計與制作過程；以項目任務(wù)的形式，做系統(tǒng)性、實戰(zhàn)性和可操作性的講解。
成衣設(shè)計，作為成衣產(chǎn)業(yè)鏈中重要的一環(huán)，兼具設(shè)計的藝術(shù)性與市場性。市場化的企業(yè)運作方式?jīng)Q定成衣設(shè)計師必須熟知市場運作規(guī)律，能夠結(jié)合市場需求和企業(yè)的生產(chǎn)特點進行設(shè)計，同時能夠很好地與相關(guān)部門溝通協(xié)作。
本書共9章：第1章 成衣設(shè)計項目任務(wù)綜述，闡述成衣設(shè)計項目任務(wù)的特點和過程、認(rèn)知設(shè)計、成衣與成衣設(shè)計、成衣產(chǎn)業(yè)、成衣設(shè)計項目的基本概念；第2章 任務(wù)一：項目調(diào)研，了解設(shè)計項目調(diào)研的基本內(nèi)容和方法，以有效的方式依照程序進行市場調(diào)研，遵照服裝流行的規(guī)律，運用流行信息來源搜集有效資訊作為產(chǎn)品開發(fā)的依據(jù)；第3章 任務(wù)二：確定設(shè)計主題，針對品牌和產(chǎn)品的
風(fēng)格、消費群體等多方面進行定位，為設(shè)計任務(wù)確定本季產(chǎn)品明確的主題；第4章 任務(wù)三：款式設(shè)計，設(shè)計新一季產(chǎn)品結(jié)構(gòu)，進行分類設(shè)計、基本款設(shè)計和款式系列設(shè)計；第5章 任務(wù)四：色彩搭配，運用色彩規(guī)律及流行色彩進行服裝整體性配色；第6章 任務(wù)五：面輔料的應(yīng)用，根據(jù)款式要求選擇相應(yīng)的面輔料；第7章 任務(wù)六：紙樣設(shè)計，準(zhǔn)確制定服裝的尺寸規(guī)格，進行成衣制板，計算用料率并進行排料，合理編制所加工服裝的工藝順序和標(biāo)準(zhǔn)；第8章 任務(wù)七：工藝設(shè)計，進一步進行服裝面輔料裁剪、排料及樣衣的縫制；第9章 任務(wù)八：設(shè)計發(fā)布，采用多種宣傳方式向消費者和市場傳達品牌的理念、展示該季的產(chǎn)品，將產(chǎn)品順利推向市場。
本書注重成衣設(shè)計產(chǎn)品開發(fā)的操作過程，在側(cè)重能力實踐的同時適當(dāng)佐之以相應(yīng)理論知識，適應(yīng)當(dāng)代服裝職業(yè)教育的需求。
本書由豐蔚任主編，馬淑燕、林璐、陳靜任副主編，另外參加部分編寫工作的還有劉錢洲、遲玲玲、張偉利等。
編者
2010年3月
第 1 章 成衣設(shè)計項目任務(wù)綜述 ················ 1
■ 1.1 認(rèn)知設(shè)計 ··········································2
■ 1.2 成衣與成衣設(shè)計 ·································4
■ 1.3 成衣產(chǎn)業(yè) ··········································6
1.3.1 產(chǎn)業(yè)概述 ··········································································6
1.3.2 成衣設(shè)計公司中的設(shè)計團隊 ··········································7
■ 1.4 成衣設(shè)計項目 ····································8
1.4.1 成衣設(shè)計項目工作過程 ··················································8
1.4.2 成衣設(shè)計的周期 ······························································8
第 2 章 任務(wù)一：項目調(diào)研 ·····················13
■ 2.1 產(chǎn)品定位 ········································14
2.1.1 確立目標(biāo)消費群體 ························································15
2.1.2 設(shè)計風(fēng)格定位 ································································17
2.1.3 設(shè)定品種類型 ································································18
2.1.4 明確產(chǎn)品生產(chǎn)與銷售方式 ············································20
■ 2.2 市場調(diào)研 ········································21
2.2.1 市場調(diào)研方式 ·································································21
2.2.2 市場調(diào)研內(nèi)容 ·································································22
■ 2.3 流行趨勢 ········································33
2.3.1 流行周期 ········································································34
2.3.2 獲取流行趨勢的途徑和渠道 ········································35
2.3.3 完成為設(shè)計任務(wù)服務(wù)的流行趨勢報告 ························39
2.3.4 流行趨勢報告 ································································44
2.3.5 流行趨勢報告案例 ························································44
第 3 章 任務(wù)二：確定設(shè)計主題 ···············49
■ 3.1 設(shè)計主題的概念 ·······························50
3.1.1 為什么確立設(shè)計主題 ····················································50
3.1.2 設(shè)計主題 ········································································50
■ 3.2 設(shè)計主題的確定 ·······························54
■ 3.3 設(shè)計主題的確定方法 ·························60
3.3.1 調(diào)研法 ············································································60
3.3.2 類比法 ············································································60
3.3.3 延伸法 ············································································60
3.3.4 歸納法 ···········································································60
■ 3.4 設(shè)計主題案例 ·································60
3.4.1 品牌定位 ········································································60
3.4.2 消費群體 ········································································61
3.4.3 確定設(shè)計主題 ································································61
第 4 章 任務(wù)三：款式設(shè)計 ·····················65
■ 4.1 款式分類設(shè)計 ··································66
4.1.1 分類設(shè)計的概念與意義 ················································66
4.1.2 服裝大類分類 ································································66
4.1.3 服裝細節(jié)分類 ································································66
■ 4.2 基本款設(shè)計 ·····································73
4.2.1 基本款的概念 ································································73
4.2.2 基本款的確定 ·······························································74
4.2.3 基本款的種類與風(fēng)格 ····················································74
4.2.4 案例 ···············································································77
■ 4.3 款式系列設(shè)計 ··································77
4.3.1 款式系列設(shè)計的概念與意義 ········································77
4.3.2 款式系列設(shè)計的原則 ····················································78
4.3.3 款式系列設(shè)計的特點 ····················································79
4.3.4 款式系列設(shè)計的常用手法 ············································79
4.3.5 款式系列設(shè)計的表現(xiàn)形式： ········································80
2
■ 4.4 基本款設(shè)計案例 ·······························81
第 5 章 任務(wù)四：色彩搭配 ·····················83
■ 5.1 認(rèn)識色彩 ········································84
■ 5.2 色彩搭配 ········································86
■ 5.3 流行色與常規(guī)色 ·······························97
5.3.1 流行色 ············································································97
5.3.2 常規(guī)色 ············································································97
5.3.3 流行色預(yù)測 ····································································97
■ 5.4 案例分析 ········································99
第 6 章 任務(wù)五：面輔料的應(yīng)用 ············· 103
■ 6.1 服裝面輔料 ··································· 104
6.1.1 面料分類 ······································································104
6.1.2 輔料分類 ······································································105
■ 6.2 面輔料的選擇與運用 ······················· 107
6.2.1 面輔料的選擇 ······························································108
6.2.2 常見面料風(fēng)格 ······························································109
■ 6.3 面料的再創(chuàng)造 ································ 110
■ 6.4 案例 ············································ 112
第 7 章 任務(wù)六：紙樣設(shè)計 ··················· 115
■ 7.1 認(rèn)知紙樣設(shè)計 ································ 116
7.1.1 人體測量與服裝規(guī)格 ··················································117
7.1.2 認(rèn)知成衣紙樣制圖 ······················································119
7.1.3 常用制圖符號說明與規(guī)范 ··········································122
■ 7.2 成衣紙樣設(shè)計流程 ·························· 122
7.2.1 上衣原型制板 ······························································122
7.2.2 大身結(jié)構(gòu) ······································································124
7.2.3 局部結(jié)構(gòu)運用 ······························································126
■ 7.3 紙樣設(shè)計應(yīng)用篇 ····························· 142
7.3.1 連衣裙 ··········································································142
7.3.2 襯衫 ············································································144
7.3.3 夾克 ··············································································147
7.3.4 套裝 ··············································································149
■ 7.4 成衣工業(yè)制板 ································ 149
7.4.1 產(chǎn)品設(shè)計開發(fā)流程 ······················································150
7.4.2 成衣工業(yè)制板 ······························································151
第 8 章 任務(wù)七：工藝設(shè)計 ··················· 157
■ 8.1 工藝設(shè)計 ······································ 158
8.1.1 概念及內(nèi)容介紹 ··························································158
8.1.2 內(nèi)容分析 ······································································158
8.1.3 案例分析 ······································································161
■ 8.2 工序設(shè)計 ······································ 161
8.2.1 概念及內(nèi)容介紹 ··························································161
8.2.2 工序流程圖分析 ··························································166
■ 8.3 服裝制板、工藝設(shè)計及流程分析案例 ·· 167
第 9 章 任務(wù)八：設(shè)計發(fā)布 ··················· 179
■ 9.1 靜態(tài)設(shè)計發(fā)布 ································ 180
9.1.1 櫥窗展示 ······································································180
9.1.2 平面宣傳 ······································································181
■ 9.2 動態(tài)設(shè)計發(fā)布 ······························· 183
9.2.1 訂貨會 ··········································································183
9.2.2 品評會 ·········································································183
9.2.3 博覽會 ··········································································184
9.2.4 發(fā)布會 ··········································································184
附 錄 ·········································· 187
■ 參考文獻 ············································· 188
■ 作者簡介 ············································· 188
■ 1.1 認(rèn)知設(shè)計 ··········································2
■ 1.2 成衣與成衣設(shè)計 ·································4
■ 1.3 成衣產(chǎn)業(yè) ··········································6
1.3.1 產(chǎn)業(yè)概述 ··········································································6
1.3.2 成衣設(shè)計公司中的設(shè)計團隊 ··········································7
■ 1.4 成衣設(shè)計項目 ····································8
1.4.1 成衣設(shè)計項目工作過程 ··················································8
1.4.2 成衣設(shè)計的周期 ······························································8
第 2 章 任務(wù)一：項目調(diào)研 ·····················13
■ 2.1 產(chǎn)品定位 ········································14
2.1.1 確立目標(biāo)消費群體 ························································15
2.1.2 設(shè)計風(fēng)格定位 ································································17
2.1.3 設(shè)定品種類型 ································································18
2.1.4 明確產(chǎn)品生產(chǎn)與銷售方式 ············································20
■ 2.2 市場調(diào)研 ········································21
2.2.1 市場調(diào)研方式 ·································································21
2.2.2 市場調(diào)研內(nèi)容 ·································································22
■ 2.3 流行趨勢 ········································33
2.3.1 流行周期 ········································································34
2.3.2 獲取流行趨勢的途徑和渠道 ········································35
2.3.3 完成為設(shè)計任務(wù)服務(wù)的流行趨勢報告 ························39
2.3.4 流行趨勢報告 ································································44
2.3.5 流行趨勢報告案例 ························································44
第 3 章 任務(wù)二：確定設(shè)計主題 ···············49
■ 3.1 設(shè)計主題的概念 ·······························50
3.1.1 為什么確立設(shè)計主題 ····················································50
3.1.2 設(shè)計主題 ········································································50
■ 3.2 設(shè)計主題的確定 ·······························54
■ 3.3 設(shè)計主題的確定方法 ·························60
3.3.1 調(diào)研法 ············································································60
3.3.2 類比法 ············································································60
3.3.3 延伸法 ············································································60
3.3.4 歸納法 ···········································································60
■ 3.4 設(shè)計主題案例 ·································60
3.4.1 品牌定位 ········································································60
3.4.2 消費群體 ········································································61
3.4.3 確定設(shè)計主題 ································································61
第 4 章 任務(wù)三：款式設(shè)計 ·····················65
■ 4.1 款式分類設(shè)計 ··································66
4.1.1 分類設(shè)計的概念與意義 ················································66
4.1.2 服裝大類分類 ································································66
4.1.3 服裝細節(jié)分類 ································································66
■ 4.2 基本款設(shè)計 ·····································73
4.2.1 基本款的概念 ································································73
4.2.2 基本款的確定 ·······························································74
4.2.3 基本款的種類與風(fēng)格 ····················································74
4.2.4 案例 ···············································································77
■ 4.3 款式系列設(shè)計 ··································77
4.3.1 款式系列設(shè)計的概念與意義 ········································77
4.3.2 款式系列設(shè)計的原則 ····················································78
4.3.3 款式系列設(shè)計的特點 ····················································79
4.3.4 款式系列設(shè)計的常用手法 ············································79
4.3.5 款式系列設(shè)計的表現(xiàn)形式： ········································80
2
■ 4.4 基本款設(shè)計案例 ·······························81
第 5 章 任務(wù)四：色彩搭配 ·····················83
■ 5.1 認(rèn)識色彩 ········································84
■ 5.2 色彩搭配 ········································86
■ 5.3 流行色與常規(guī)色 ·······························97
5.3.1 流行色 ············································································97
5.3.2 常規(guī)色 ············································································97
5.3.3 流行色預(yù)測 ····································································97
■ 5.4 案例分析 ········································99
第 6 章 任務(wù)五：面輔料的應(yīng)用 ············· 103
■ 6.1 服裝面輔料 ··································· 104
6.1.1 面料分類 ······································································104
6.1.2 輔料分類 ······································································105
■ 6.2 面輔料的選擇與運用 ······················· 107
6.2.1 面輔料的選擇 ······························································108
6.2.2 常見面料風(fēng)格 ······························································109
■ 6.3 面料的再創(chuàng)造 ································ 110
■ 6.4 案例 ············································ 112
第 7 章 任務(wù)六：紙樣設(shè)計 ··················· 115
■ 7.1 認(rèn)知紙樣設(shè)計 ································ 116
7.1.1 人體測量與服裝規(guī)格 ··················································117
7.1.2 認(rèn)知成衣紙樣制圖 ······················································119
7.1.3 常用制圖符號說明與規(guī)范 ··········································122
■ 7.2 成衣紙樣設(shè)計流程 ·························· 122
7.2.1 上衣原型制板 ······························································122
7.2.2 大身結(jié)構(gòu) ······································································124
7.2.3 局部結(jié)構(gòu)運用 ······························································126
■ 7.3 紙樣設(shè)計應(yīng)用篇 ····························· 142
7.3.1 連衣裙 ··········································································142
7.3.2 襯衫 ············································································144
7.3.3 夾克 ··············································································147
7.3.4 套裝 ··············································································149
■ 7.4 成衣工業(yè)制板 ································ 149
7.4.1 產(chǎn)品設(shè)計開發(fā)流程 ······················································150
7.4.2 成衣工業(yè)制板 ······························································151
第 8 章 任務(wù)七：工藝設(shè)計 ··················· 157
■ 8.1 工藝設(shè)計 ······································ 158
8.1.1 概念及內(nèi)容介紹 ··························································158
8.1.2 內(nèi)容分析 ······································································158
8.1.3 案例分析 ······································································161
■ 8.2 工序設(shè)計 ······································ 161
8.2.1 概念及內(nèi)容介紹 ··························································161
8.2.2 工序流程圖分析 ··························································166
■ 8.3 服裝制板、工藝設(shè)計及流程分析案例 ·· 167
第 9 章 任務(wù)八：設(shè)計發(fā)布 ··················· 179
■ 9.1 靜態(tài)設(shè)計發(fā)布 ································ 180
9.1.1 櫥窗展示 ······································································180
9.1.2 平面宣傳 ······································································181
■ 9.2 動態(tài)設(shè)計發(fā)布 ······························· 183
9.2.1 訂貨會 ··········································································183
9.2.2 品評會 ·········································································183
9.2.3 博覽會 ··········································································184
9.2.4 發(fā)布會 ··········································································184
附 錄 ·········································· 187
■ 參考文獻 ············································· 188
■ 作者簡介 ············································· 188
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